Skin care and the physiology of the skin

The largest organ of the human body is the skin. It protects our bodies from the environment, maintains body temperature, excretes waste matter, gives sensory information to the brain and regulates body moisture. It is important to consider,
then, how cosmetic products affect our skin. In this article, the psycho-social impact of cosmetics will be examined, as well as why cosmetics are deemed necessary. The physiology of skin, how cosmetics affect skin function and the effects of synthetic and
natural cosmetic ingredients on the skin will also be considered.

The Psycho-Social Impact of Cosmetics

Our society is preoccupied with the "culture of beauty" (Lappe, 1996) which includes the notion that our skin must always look young and appear free from blemish. Cosmetic companies set aside concepts of natural beauty so that flaws
such as large pores, fine lines, and wrinkles are brought to the fore, influencing our spending habits in pursuit of flawless skin.

Humans do not have equivalent ornamentation, so women use cosmetics,
specifically make-up, to decorate their faces to attract
prospective mates.

The Need for Cosmetics

A cosmetic is any substance which, when applied, results in a temporary, superficial change (Anctzak, 2001). We use a myriad of cosmetics on our skin, from moisturizers to lipstick. Make-up can hide blemishes, scars, under-eye circles, or even out our
skin tone. It can boost self-esteem, make us feel more attractive and increase our social acceptability in some social situations. Using make-up can contribute to a well-groomed image, which positively influences our confidence, self-esteem,
health and morale.Skin care cosmetics treat the surface layer of the skin by
providing better protection against the environment than skin left untreated. Moisture cream treats the skin's surface by imparting moisture to the skin cells on the outermost layer of the skin. It also forms a thin barrier which traps moisture underneath, thereby preventing the evaporation of water from the skin's
surface. Creams also accelerate the hydration of skin cells on the outer layer, giving the skin a temporarily smooth, plump appearance. Exfoliants improve the appearance of the skin by sloughing away flaky skin, blackheads, and some dead skin cells.
Astringents improve skin tone and texture by swelling the pore walls so dirt and debris do not collect within. Soaps loosen particles of dirt and grime by dissolving the greasy residue left on the skin from natural skin oils, creams, and make-up.

The Physiology of the Skin and How Cosmetics Affect Skin Function

Skin is made up of three main layers: the epidermis, the dermis, and the hypodermis. The epidermis is the only layer we can see with our eyes. As we age, remarkable changes occur which are hidden from our view. For instance, the skin gradually thins over time, especially around the eyes. Some cosmeceuticals can minimally re-thicken the skin, but the process of thinning is inevitable. Elastin and collagen, located in the dermis, keep the skin resilient and moist; but, with aging, these fibers break
down to create lines and wrinkles. Exposure to ultraviolet radiation accelerates this process. Since few cosmetics can actually reach the dermis, the idea that a cosmetic can reverse this process is unfounded. The skin is a highly complex, dynamic tissue system. One square inch of the skin is composed of 19 million cells, 625 sweat
glands, 90 oil glands, 65 hair follicles, 19 000 sensory cells and over 4 yards of blood vessels (Lappe, 1996). The outermost layer of the epidermis is called the cornified layer, and is made of sheets of keratin (a protein) and squames (dead, flat skin
cells). It receives its primary supply of moisture from the underlying tissue, since constant contact from the external environment tends to dry out the skin's surface. When the skin is exposed to dry conditions, the cornified layer can become
dry, brittle, firm, and (if untreated) can crack and lead to infection. Creams create a waxy barrier to prevent dehydration, and keep the skin moist and supple. Underneath the cornified layer lie six more layers of the epidermis that are responsible for cell generation. The life cycle of skin cells within this layer takes
approximately 28 days, so it may take three to four weeks to observe any changes at the skin's surface from using a new cosmetic.

The skin surface is also home to millions of healthy micro-organisms which increase our immunity to pathogenic (or disease-causing) bacteria. Thus, our desire to sterilize the skin also destroys beneficial bacteria, such as streptococcus mutans,
and micrococcus luteus . Toners, for instance, are beneficial in keeping bacterial populations down, thus reducing acne flare-ups resulting from microbes which invade and proliferate in the pores. Overuse of anti-microbial agents can produce harmful
results when too many beneficial bacteria are destroyed, allowing pathogenic bacteria to multiply unchecked on the skin. The skin also produces antimicrobial proteins, two of which are called defensins and cathelicidins. These proteins increase when the skin is damaged. Perspiration, necessary for the maintenance of
internal body temperature, also excretes a germicidal protein called dermicidin to combat bacteria. A by-product of this combat is body odor.

The Effect of Natural and Synthetic Cosmetic Ingredients on the
Skin

A natural substance is any plant or animal extract, rock or mineral which is obtained from the earth (Antczak, 2001). Do the ingredients have positive or negative effects on the skin and body?

Skin used to be considered an impermeable barrier, but transdermal drugs have proven that the opposite is true. The skin allows many substances to pass through its layers into the bloodstream.

Several factors affect the rate with which the skin will absorb various cosmetic ingredients. The condition of the skin, such as whether it is dry or damaged, will affect absorption. Cuts, acne, or abrasions also increase absorption.

Moist substances are most readily absorbed, and powders are absorbed
the least by the skin. Many products claim to address a skin issue, such as acne or dry skin, but contain ingredients which exacerbate these problems. For instance, acne treatments may contain comedogenic, or pore-clogging, ingredients. Creams that are supposed to treat dry skin may actually strip the skin of its natural oils, which are useful in preventing dryness. Some contain chemicals, which seep through the skin, dissolve skin oils, and defat the skin (Lappe, 1996). A growing trend is
chemical sensitivity, which can develop at any time, even after long term use of the same product. The ingredients in many cosmetics cause 20% of the population (U.S. data, Erickson, 2002) to develop the symptoms of chemical sensitivity. Natural
cosmetics emphasize more traditional skin treatments with few of these harsh effects, thus acknowledging that short term beauty does not balance with long term hazards to health.The health of the skin is dependent on sound nutritional
practices, healthy living, and effective, safe protection on its surface. Organic make-up can help you achieve healthy, radiant skin by offering a complete line of cosmetics and makeup composed of all natural ingredients, with no animal, synthetic,
or petroleum-based ingredients.

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