The largest organ of the human body is the skin. It protects our
bodies from the environment, maintains body temperature,
excretes waste matter, gives sensory information to the brain
and regulates body moisture. It is worthy to consider,
then, how cosmetic products affect our skin. In this article the
psycho-social impact of cosmetics will be examined as well as
why cosmetics are deemed necessary. The physiology of skin, how
cosmetics affect skin function and the effects of synthetic and
natural cosmetic ingredients on the skin will also be considered.

The Psycho-Social Impact of Cosmetics

Our society is preoccupied with the "culture of beauty" (Lappe,
1996) which includes the notion that our skin must always look
young and appear free from blemish. Cosmetic
companies set aside concepts of natural beauty so that flaws
such as large pores, fine lines and wrinkles are brought to the
fore, influencing our spending habits in pursuit of flawless
skin.

Humans do not have equivalent ornamentation, so women use cosmetics,
specifically make-up, to decorate their faces to attract
prospective mates.

The Need for Cosmetics

A cosmetic is any substance which, when applied, results in a
temporary, superficial change (Anctzak, 2001). We use a myriad
of cosmetics on our skin, from moisturizers to lipstick. Make-up
can hide blemishes, scars, under-eye circles or even out our
skin tone. It can boost self-esteem, make us feel more
attractive and increase our social acceptability in some social
situations. Using make-up can contribute to a well-groomed
image, which positively influences our confidence, self-esteem,
health and morale.

Skin care cosmetics treat the surface layer of the skin by
providing better protection against the environment than skin
left untreated. Creams treat the skin's surface by imparting
moisture to the skin cells on the outermost layer of the skin.
It also forms a thin barrier which traps moisture underneath,
thereby preventing the evaporation of water from the skin's
surface. Creams also accelerate the hydration of skin cells on
the outer layer, giving the skin a temporarily smooth, plump
appearance. Exfoliants improve the appearance of the skin by
sloughing away flaky skin, blackheads and some dead skin cells.
Astringents improve skin tone and texture by swelling the pore
walls so dirt and debris do not collect within. Soaps loosen
particles of dirt and grime by dissolving the greasy residue
left on the skin from natural skin oils, creams and make-up.

The Physiology of the Skin and How Cosmetics Affect Skin Function

Skin is made up of three main layers: the epidermis, the dermis
and the hypodermis (see picture).The epidermis is the only layer
we can see with our eyes and as we age, remarkable changes occur
which are hidden from our view. For instance, the skin gradually
thins over time, especially around the eyes. Some cosmeceuticals
can minimally re-thicken the skin, but the process of thinning
is inevitable. Elastin and collagen, located in the dermis keep
the skin resilient and moist, but with ageing these fibres break
down to create lines and wrinkles. Exposure to ultraviolet
radiation accelerates this process, and since few cosmetics can
actually reach the dermis, the idea that a cosmetic can reverse
this process is unfounded.
The skin is a highly complex, dynamic tissue system. One square
inch of the skin is composed of 19 million cells, 625 sweat
glands, 90 oil glands, 65 hair follicles, 19 000 sensory cells
and 4 metres of blood vessels (Lappe, 1996). The outermost layer
of the epidermis is called the cornified layer, and is made of
sheets of keratin, a protein, and squames, dead, flat skin
cells. It receives its primary supply of moisture from the
underlying tissue, since constant contact from the external
environment tends to dry out the skin's surface. When the skin
is exposed to dry conditions, the cornified layer can become
dry, brittle, firm and if untreated, it can crack and lead to
infection. Creams create a waxy barrier to prevent dehydration
and keep the skin moist and supple. Underneath the cornified
layer lie six more layers of the epidermis responsible for cell
generation. The life cycle of skin cells within this layer takes
approximately 28 days, so it may take three to four weeks to
observe any changes at the skin's surface from using a new
cosmetic.

The skin surface is also home to millions of healthy
micro-organisms which increase our immunity to pathogenic, or
disease-causing bacteria. Thus, our desire to sterilize the skin
also destroys beneficial bacteria, such as streptococcus mutans,
and micrococcus luteus . Toners, for instance, are beneficial in
keeping bacterial populations down, thus reducing acne flare-ups
resulting from microbes which invade and proliferate in the
pores. Overuse of anti-microbial agents can produce harmful
results when too many beneficial bacteria are destroyed,
allowing pathogenic bacteria to multiply unchecked on the skin.
The skin also produces antimicrobial proteins, two of which are
called defensins and cathelicidins, which increase when the skin
is damaged. Perspiration, necessary for the maintenance of
internal body temperature, also excretes a germicidal protein
called dermicidin to combat bacteria producing body odour.


The Effect of Natural and Synthetic Cosmetic Ingredients on the
Skin

A natural substance is any plant or animal extract, rock or
mineral which is obtained from the earth (Antczak, 2001).
Do the ingredients have positive or negative effects on
the skin and body?


Skin used to be considered an impermeable barrier, but
transdermal drugs have proven that the opposite is true; the
skin allows many substances to pass through its layers into the
bloodstream.

Several factors affect the rate with which the skin will absorb
various cosmetic ingredients. The condition of the skin, such as
whether it is dry or damaged will increase absorption. Cuts,
acne or abrasions also increase absorption.

Moist substances are most readily absorbed and powders are absorbed
the least by the skin. Many products claim to address a skin
issue, such as acne or dry skin, but contain ingredients which
exacerbate these problems. For instance, acne treatments may
contain comedogenic, or pore-clogging ingredients. Creams that
are supposed to treat dry skin may actually strip the skin of
its natural oils which are useful in preventing dryness. Some
contain chemicals which seep through the skin and dissolve skin
oils and defat the skin (Lappe, 1996). A growing trend is
chemical sensitivity, which can develop at any time, even after
long term use of the same product. The ingredients in many
cosmetics cause 20% of the population (U.S. data, Erickson,
2002) to develop the symptoms of chemical sensitivity. Natural
cosmetics emphasize more traditional skin treatments with few of
these harsh effects, acknowledging that short term beauty does
not balance with long term hazards to health.

The health of the skin is dependent on sound nutritional
practices, healthy living and effective, safe protection on its
surface. The organic make-up co. can help you achieve healthy,
radiant skin by offering a complete line of cosmetics and makeup
composed of all natural ingredients, with no animal, synthetic
or petroleum-based ingredients.